Via dos Italianos
One of the most famous climbing routes in Brazil, this is a classic line on the West face of Sugarloaf, and it’s considered a tespiece for 5.9+/ 5.10 climbers. It’s a very sustained and delicate climb that requires good footwork on small holds. Italianos route itself is rated in 5.9+/6a and has about 100 meters of length until a comfy ledge, from there is possible to take a long traverse pitch to link with the second part of Secundo route (5.8+/5b+), climbing more 2 to 3 pitches until the top of the mountain. It is long though and you should be comfortable with multi-pitch procedures before committing to this route. Many people that aren’t used to technical slab climbing find this too difficult for them, and end up going down before reaching the summit.
20 to 30 minutes
260 meters (6 to 7 pitches)
5.10 a (US), 6 a (FR), 5 sup (BR)